In the Sorbian restaurant "Wjelbik" in Bautzen, Upper Lusatian cuisine is not only preserved, but constantly reinterpreted. Monika Lukasch, a trained chef and patissière, runs the family business with passion together with her husband. In this interview, she explains how she harmonizes tradition and modernity, how she puts regional ingredients in the spotlight and why her dishes often bring back childhood memories.
Mrs. Lukasch, you run the Sorbian restaurant "Wjelbik" in Bautzen. But are you also a chef yourself?
Yes, I am a trained chef and patissière. Cooking has been part of my life from the very beginning, as my parents founded the restaurant. I practically grew up in this environment and helped out from an early age. My path later led me back home via various stations.
What sparked your passion for cooking and food in the first place?
It was my family. My parents have run the restaurant since reunification. Before that, it was the artists' restaurant of the Sorbian National Ensemble. As a child, I was often involved in the family business, whether it was welcoming guests or observing the work in the kitchen. So it wasn't new territory for me later on. After school, I finally decided to enter the catering industry - not least because my father told me about a training program in Alsace.
What attracted you to this program?
I had already spent a year abroad during school and wanted to continue this experience. The program offered me the opportunity to combine training as a chef with a stay in France. I was able to learn a new language, gain independence and get to know French cuisine at the same time. It was an adventure for me.
What did this training look like?
I trained as a chef for two years in a family-run business in Alsace and then completed an additional qualification as a patissière in a Michelin-starred restaurant. This training is not available in Germany - it involves baking bread, cakes and rolls, but with a focus on gastronomy. I also learned how to create desserts and ice cream specialties for the restaurant. My time there shaped me and strengthened my love of the craft. After that, however, I wanted to go back to university and studied hotel management at the hotel management school in Heidelberg.
Your husband also works in the restaurant trade, right?
Exactly. My husband is a trained butcher and master butcher, and later he also trained as a chef in a gourmet restaurant to get to know the fine cuisine. These experiences in top gastronomy have certainly sharpened our eye for quality.
What finally brought you back to Upper Lusatia?
In 2009, we were faced with the decision of continuing our careers far away from Saxony or returning home. Our roots and the desire to continue the family tradition ultimately tipped the scales. Since 2018, we have been running Wjelbik entirely in the second generation.
What makes Upper Lusatian cuisine special for you?
Upper Lusatian cuisine is simple, purist and strongly influenced by the region. It is based on local products and traditional recipes. One example is our Lusatian carp, a dish that we serve in winter and that many guests ask for again and again. They often say that our dishes remind them of their grandmother's food. I think it's wonderful when we can awaken such memories. We all know that grandma's food always tasted particularly good.
Are there any other typical dishes or products that you associate with the region?
For me, boiled beef with horseradish and quark with linseed oil are at the top of the list. These are traditional dishes with Sorbian roots that we consciously preserve. We avoid overloading our cuisine with international influences and instead focus on authenticity.
How do you manage to make this traditional cuisine modern?
By working seasonally and regionally while remaining creative. We source our ingredients from local producers and adapt our dishes to the seasons. We try to prepare familiar dishes in an interesting way, so that they can be experienced in a new way. At the same time, it is our task to keep traditional Upper Lusatian cuisine fresh and appealing without losing its roots. This balance is our goal.
Not everyone likes meat, some are vegetarians, others are vegans. How do you deal with this?
Of course we offer vegetarian and occasionally vegan dishes, but we don't rely on substitutes such as tofu. Instead, we concentrate on natural ingredients and create dishes that also appeal to meat lovers.
You must be very busy at work. When you have time, which restaurant do you like to go to yourself?
Of course, we are also friends with some restaurateurs. A meal like this is always an opportunity to chat. For example, we like to go to the Lindner family at Grenzschänke in Friedersdorf. You can enjoy yourself there in peace and it's a wonderful place to switch off.
What is your vision for the culinary identity of Upper Lusatia?
I hope that the region will once again place more emphasis on regional cuisine and that young people will find the courage to start their own gastronomic projects. Old inns could be revitalized with fresh ideas. This would not only increase culinary diversity, but also the quality of life in the region. Maybe we can get more young people to choose a career in gastronomy again. It's a great job and a lot of fun.
Thank you very much for the great interview!
My favorite dessert - A recipe by Monika Lukasch
Procedure
- Bring the sugar and water to the boil at 121 degrees Celsius, add to the beaten egg yolks while stirring.
- Soak the gelatine, add to the warm egg yolk and sugar mixture and dissolve.
- Then fold in the whipped cream.
Tip: The mixture can also be filled into a piping bag so that it can be spread evenly over the rhubarb. - Peel the rhubarb and cut into small pieces and place in a baking dish.
- Caramelize the sugar and deglaze with apple juice, thicken slightly with a little starch, add to the rhubarb and bake at 140 degrees Celsius for 15-20 minutes.
- Pour the rhubarb into small bowls, cover with sabayon and gratinate in the oven
This dessert is easy to prepare and can be assembled before serving.
